iRiver iHP-120/140 USB charge with BQ24022

[Sando]

As long as I didn't plugin both USB and DC in at the same time it should be OK right?

If I read the data sheet correctly, the BQ24022 will just charge from DC in if both are plugged in so I believe it'll handle it fine.

[Davide-NYC]

OK, I've located the chip in question on the MoBo.
  (those are some very tiny legs to solder)

I believe I've understood what needs to be connected where and I've generated a little drawing.



Question 1: Is this drawing correct? (I know I could route the wires better)
Question 2: What would the R and C values be?
Question 3: Are there better (more convenient) grounding points?
Question 4: Would any software modification be necessary or is this a 100% pure HW mod?
Question 5: Where can I purchase the worlds tiniest soldering iron?  

[roolku]

Hi Davide-NYC,

the following is to the best of my knowledge, but might well be wrong, so please don't blame me...

Question 1: Is this drawing correct? (I know I could route the wires better)

Looks okay to me.

Question 2: What would the R and C values be?

R you don't need (i.e. connect to ground directly).
C is to suppress spikes and should probably be as close to the IC as possible. Personally I would put it where you drew it though (or even omit it). I guess a value of 47nF would be fine.

Question 3: Are there better (more convenient) grounding points?

I couldn't really find any - possibly the battery connector as it is on the same board and close by.

Question 4: Would any software modification be necessary or is this a 100% pure HW mod?

With just the hardware mod, the player would charge, but be connected in USB mode.

If you want to charge while playing music, you need a software mod as well. It should be straight forward (e.g. enable the defines HAVE_USB_POWER, USBPOWER_BTN_IGNORE and USBPOWER_BUTTON in the right places). I have a patch for that for you if you want.

Question 5: Where can I purchase the worlds tiniest soldering iron?  

My approach will probably be:

1) get thin stranded wire
2) remove about 3mm insulation
3) cut all but one strand back to 2mm
4) cover expose strands in solder
5) place in such a way that the 1execess strand is above the pin
6) fixate wire with glue to hold it in place and provide strain relieve
7) carefully dip a soldering iron on the single strand above the pin
hope it only connects to the one pin it is supposed to connect to

but maybe you have a better idea?

Other comments:

This is the minimal mod. Variations would be:

- connect pin 7 to UCC (3.3V) instead of GND to enable charging with 500mA. Strictly speaking USB needs to negotioate with the host if it can supply 500mA, but most USB ports will provide it by default and I believe other targets do it

- connect pin 7 to a GPO pin of the CPU to switch between charging modes by software. This would obviously require a patch to be able to switch between the modes.

[bluebrother]

1) get thin stranded wire

I would suggest wrap wire like this (correct me if there is a more appropriate english term for this): http://export.farnell.com/jsp/Cable/Single+Wire/ROADRUNNER/RRP-P-105/displayProduct.jsp?sku=146184

[roolku]

1) get thin stranded wire

I would suggest wrap wire like this (correct me if there is a more appropriate english term for this):

If I understand the listing correctly this is a single strand coated in Polyurethane?

The problem I have is the diameter - on one hand you want it thin (so it is easier to connect) but on the other hand you want it thick for the 100-500mA. (the example is only rated for 82mA - which is probably enough for 100mA, but 500?). Therefore my idea with the stranded wire where only the tip is thin (but covered in solder so hopefully sufficient).

I still can't understand why the pins in a charging IC are that small (the mains charger can deliver up to 2A!).

[Davide-NYC]

bluebrother:  the link you posted didn't work for me so I have no idea what you are referring to.

Roolku:

R you don't need (i.e. connect to ground directly).
C is to suppress spikes and should probably be as close to the IC as possible. Personally I would put it where you drew it though (or even omit it). I guess a value of 47nF would be fine.

As a first attempt I could forgo both the resistor and the cap?
That would make this all a little bit easier.

7) carefully dip a soldering iron on the single strand above the pin
hope it only connects to the one pin it is supposed to connect to

but maybe you have a better idea?

If your method proves difficult I may try conducting heat with a needle to a tinned wire glued in place. (or something)

Tomorrow I will attempt the repair of my dead player according to the repair post on misticriver. If that goes well I will attempt the USB mod *before* I do the RTC mod. If it goes badly I can practice on the dead unit and reconsider modding my good one.  

Wish me luck!  

[roolku]

bluebrother:  the link you posted didn't work for me so I have no idea what you are referring to.

You need to select a country first. Then the second time you click the link it will direct you to the right page.

As a first attempt I could forgo both the resistor and the cap?
That would make this all a little bit easier.

I don't know where the idea for a for the resistor came from (Can't see anything in the data sheet suggesting to have one).

The cap is 'good practice', it has no functional meaning.

Wish me luck!  

Good luck.

Here is the patch: http://www.rockbox.org/tracker/task/6990

It uses the same key as the h300 (i.e. record). You can try it without the mod: hold record while the player is on and insert the USB cable. It should not enter USB mode, but instead show the little USB icon in the statusbar.

Once you have done the mod successfully the charging light will come on. (this is your indicator even without the patch, as it is controlled by hardware)

[bluebrother]

bluebrother:  the link you posted didn't work for me so I have no idea what you are referring to.

Damn. It worked when I tried it yesterday ... search for article number 146184 at farnell.com.

roolku: right, overlooked that. There are thicker versions available, but when I look at those tiny pins I don't think it should be that much of a problem. Just imagine the bonding wires inside of the chip ;-)

[roelieboelie]

Very intresting topic! *bookmarked!*

[Davide-NYC]

Weekend came and went. I didn't touch any of my irivers.... No time!
Stayed tuned I'll try to put in some time and effort tonight.  

[Davide-NYC]

OK, I poked around, shorting the appropriate pins on the appropriate chips (according to the MR thread) and I get no response from my fried iRiver. I think I have multiple problems instead of just one.

So, due to the tinyness of the BQ24022 pins I am unwilling to try this on my good unit.
So my progress on this front has halted for now.

[XavierGr]

Ok, I have a spare iHP-115 and I might try to mod it.

I am already trying to mod my iHP-140 with the RTC mod and before that I checked to do the USB charge on it. On a second thought I ditched the  idea to do it on my 140, because the pins of the BQ24022 are so tiny that I don't think I have the skills to make it through. (I have major problems with the RTC mod that has bigger pins)

As soon as I finish the RTC mod I will open the 115 and try to see if I can solder those small pins. It seems very difficult, I can't imagine how I will pass the soldering iron through there.

[XavierGr]

Bad news, it seems that it won't work on my iHP-115.

Strange thing is that instead of the chip that is shown on the picture that Davide-NYC provided, my unit has a slightly different chip that says "LTLX" on it. Also it doesn't have the side pins that the picture shows.

The player still operates normally, but when I insert the USB cable the player just doesn't charge (no green led, normal USB mode).

Any advice or someone that has confirmed that this mod works? I will leave the player wired for a little bit and then remove the mod if I don't find a way to make it work.

Update: Ok more bad news, the player won't even charge from the adapter. I removed the wires and fortunately now all seems to work fine.

[XavierGr]

OK on a second thought I think that the wirings that Davide-NYC provided seem wrong to me.

Pin 2 according to Davide is connected to Pin 5 of the USB jack which is ground from what I read in the USB minB spec.

Please correct me if I am wrong but isn't supposed that we need Pin2 on USB Vcc (Pin1)?

Also does anyone know of a GPIO pin available (and where) for setting pin7 high, low?

Update: Ok this is getting very weird...

I managed to make it partially work.
First, Davide-NYC is wrong for at least pin2 of the BQ chip. pin2 must be connected to pin1 of the USB miniB which is the first from the left. (not pin5 as the picture shows)

Pin7 is very weird. When I insert the USB miniB jack; if pin7 is connected either to battery ground or battery Vcc then the player will work normally without charging from USB or even the AC adapter. (Green light will never come on on both occasions)

When I leave Pin7 alone then the player will charge from USB (at unknown amperage, haven't measured it) but as soon as I turn on the player, the Green light will turn off after a second or 2.

Also another interesting finding is that when the player is off and charging from USB; If I connect pin7 to Battery ground then the Green light will turn off even if in the mean time I disconnect the wire. To turn the Green light on (without reinserting the USB cable) I have to connect and then disconnect pin7 to  Battery Vcc.
Note that Green light will stay off while pin7 is connected to Battery Vcc  and it will only come on again if I remove the connection between them. (wire of pin7 in the air)

I am totally confused with it, what the hell is going on? Any ideas or advice?

Update 2: Ok good news, the reason why the green light turned off while the player was on seems to be that my hub USB port couldn't deliver enough amperes to the device for both operation and green light charging.

Now the only thing that is missing is to find a way to solder the wire on a GPIO port from the CPU and pin7 (or something like that I don't know), to control the charging with software too.

For the moment if you don't want software controlled charging (always on while on USB) then leave pin7 on the BQ chip alone.

[pabouk]

I am totally confused with it, what the hell is going on? Any ideas or advice?

Just a quick idea: try to assert logic 1 or 0 to pin 7 over a resistor (around 3k).