Support and General Use > Hardware
Replacement of UDA1380 to cure H320 hiss?
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Madjon:
Hi all,
I have searched the forums and can't find any mention of this being tried before, however somebody may have and I would be very interested to hear about the success (or lack of such).
I have a very loud hiss from my H320, it's present on both the line-out and headphones sockets and seems independant of load impedence.
I poked it with a spectrum analyser and the noise I'm hearing is a wideband hash, although a large signal is present at 500KHz (I2C clock?)
The rail to the decoder seems fairly clean of noise so I suspect the part is simply damaged/faulty.
As another issue I have horrible clipping on very bassy songs in the Rockbox firmware but not the iRiver firmware. I can take the iRiver up to ear-bleeding levels without any audiable clipping, while at moderate volumes Rockbox is so bad you can't make the song out in bassy sections.
I'm not sure if this is to do with my dodgy hardware so I didn't post this in the general questions, but does this happen to anyone else?
Any comments gladly appricated, and thanks to all the devs for making a very fine firmware.
LinusN:
I can't comment on the hiss, but the clipping shouldn't be there unless you have cranked the bass, crossfeed or the EQ. Are you using flat settings?
Madjon:
Hi Linus, thanks for the reply.
I thought I was using flat settings (did a settings reset) but after checking the menus it's stopped doing it.
Is it possible I had a corrupt setting and the act of verifying the settings were zero set it to a valid value?
I'm sure I wasn't imagining it as it was highly noticable..
I'm still waiting for my UDA1380 samples, Philips Semiconductor has become NXP and I have a new rep who appears to be useless. I may just try to buy a couple instead of wringing FOC samples out of them.
saratoga:
The UDA1380 looks like it would be extremely hard to replace.
Madjon:
Not really, it's a TSSOP (Thin Shrink Small Outline Package) device and quite easily done by hand. You flood one side, lift carefully, de-solder that side with braid then finally flood and lift the other side. The 'correct' method is to use a hot-air rework station, but by hand can be as safe or safer with regards to lifting pads.
BGA, however, is a pig even with a proper rework set-up. Hopefully it'll stay relegated to highly integrated devices for a while yet!
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