Support and General Use > Hardware
H120 CF mod - enable UDMA on USB bridge
dobbley:
--- Quote from: amiconn on February 22, 2009, 08:06:08 AM ---
Please add VID=0x0e21, PID=0x0500 (iAudio M3) to the tool for testing. The X5 "side port" ID in turn should be removed. This goes to the OTG chip, not the ISD300. I could add it myself, but I don't know what's needed to build the tool.
--- End quote ---
Changes made in wiki (0.9.2)
amiconn:
dobbley: Thanks for adding the M3 PID. I was now able to test the M3 as well. It also has UDMA enabled by default, as its successors.
bluebrother:
I've added a diff to the wiki page that allows building on linux (at least it did for me). The tool needs to be run as root, otherwise it won't find the bridge. It worked fine for me -- speed increase is similar to the values stated in the wiki.
markanini:
I wanna try the USB DMA mod on my H120. Do I connect these points to get around write protect?
DTSyX:
If I may 'reopen' this thread.
I have no experience with such operations so it's a bit diffcult for me to see what dobbley actually did (http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php/topic,20402.msg144038.html#msg144038). And also as far as I understand, even though he seem to agree with dreamlayers (http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php/topic,20402.msg144036.html#msg144036) I think he did something else.
So for me, it's a bit hard to actually understand what he really was doing, at least not good enough to feel encouraged enough to try it myself.
Dreamlayers says: "Above the IC is a circular silvery pad with the letters WP below it. I can't see what it connects to, but I suspect it connects to the write protect pin, and if you ground it, you should be able to write to the EEPROM (normally, via USB and the ISD-300)."
While dobbley states: "So then took a deep breath, grounded one end of the wire and put the other in place at the EEPROM side of the resistor."
To me, the silvery WP pad and the EEPROM side of the resistor are not the same thing.
So, I ask the ones who actually succeeded in this task, mainly dobbley, could you please post a version of that picture that is referred to in this thread marking the element(s) which have to be grounded?
It would be very helfpul and appreciated!
Because trial and error is not something I want to apply on my loved H140... :-)
Thank you very much!
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