iRiver H100/H300: Battery drain while off.

[Llorean]

It's just a text file. Please attach it to a post in this thread.

[wafflesomd]

Apperently the file is too large.

Get it from here.

ftp://24.166.218.165/battery_bench.txt

[Llorean]

It looks like that battery has lost at least 30% of its expected runtime, assuming that it's a stock battery. If it's a higher capacity one, it's lost even more.

How old is it?

[wafflesomd]

I couldn't say.

I traded an h120 for it.

I left my player sitting on the desk today.  It had %100 charge when I left my house at about 6 p.m.  When I came back at approx 1:49 a.m.  I had 83% battery.

So, a new battery I guess.

Any reccomendations?

[nls]

I have a h320 that's about 3 years old now, if i leave it powered off for a night it will lose about 0.05-0.1V I think this problem is due to old batteries, apparently the CameronSino batteries are good, i don't have any first hand experience with them though.

[farwest]

hello, i m a french new user and i ve got the same problem! i ve just bought a new 2200 cameron sino, i ve charged this new battery during 24hours on the usb port, all was ok so i ve switched the iriver off. but the day after the battery was empty!! what s my problem? i ve reinstalled the original iriver firmware and iv got also the same problem?
thanx

[AlexP]

If you have the same problem both with and without rockbox installed then to me it sounds very much like a hardware problem I'm afraid.

[farwest]

hardware? does it mean that is a fake batterry? how can i test it?
thanx

[Skyly]

A few months later, but this thread seems to be talking about the same problem I have.

It clearly seems to be a hardware issue in my case.

I bought a H340 with a dying battery, so also bought a 2200mA CameronSino.

1. Instead of the 20+ hours I was expecting, I get 10 hours of continuous play.
2. The battery is also completely drained after 1 day of being switched off, which is pretty annoying.
3. When it is charging, after a while the HDD starts having problems, repeatedly spinning up, clicking, and spinning down.

These problems all occur in both firmwares; they all occur on yet another new battery (another CameronSino 2200mA I bought); and they all occur with the back of the player still screwed on or taken off. I had read that hot batteries swell up, which sounded like a nice solution, but taking the back off has made no difference.

Any tips on fixing this would be great.

[petur]

No idea... my h340 has a CameronSino battery for 1+ year and I'm seeing none of your issues.
Either there are hardware issues at work, or there are some iriver models with slightly different hardware? (the latter is however unlikely)

[Skyly]

Someone mentioned short-circuiting something when they were using a screwdriver to disassemble their iriver. Later they discovered that this hadn't happened at all, but I'm wondering if I have done something similar.

Notice that farwest and I have both had this problem after changing the battery.. so it's possible. Since the original battery was already struggling to last for 1 hour, I don't know if this problem did or didn't exist before I started unscrewing things.


Hmm. One thing I can test is the battery brand, since I still have the original iriver battery. I can swap that back in and I will at least be able to test drain while the player is off.
If the player doesn't drain, we know it's the CameronSino batteries, possibly mixing badly with only some irivers. (Yes, unlikely)
If the player does drain, we know it's the lump of black plastic itself.

I will also test HDD issues while charging as well... but no idea when I'll get around to doing this. Switching batteries isn't fun, and impatience = breaking parts.

But really, it looks like the battery is simply losing charge as a permanent action. As if it's always losing X volts per hour, and turning the player on simply adds to that a bit. From what I've seen, I could go so far as to say that the amount of charge used per hour to play and load music endlessly is less than the amount of charge lost per hour when it is simply switched off.


Oh, one other thing maybe worth mentioning. I live in Spain. This is a UK H340. I use the UK AC adaptor with a plug converter to charge, and sometimes even an Australian AC adaptor. I'm from Australia and some little $"#@! stole my first H340, so I still have the charger. Australia uses 240volts, unlike America but similar to Europe.

[petur]

fyi, I also live in Europe and have the Euro model. I'm now at my 3rd battery, which is also CameronSino (the previous was some cheap ipod replacement brand that almost blew up).

I cannot see anything you're seeing

putting back the old battery is a good idea, and yes I know that doing that is a serious PITA

[dreamlayers]

Someone should measure current used by the device when it is off.   That will allow you to see if it's the battery self-discharging or the device using power. You can probably get a multimeter for less than the price of ordering a new battery.

[rocknorb]

Hello everybody,

my 4 year old h340 is draining the battery in off-state too, and it does not show the "charging screen" when the power supply is plugged in.

I opened my player, disconnected the red plus wire from the battery and put in an Amperemeter. It showed 20,4 mA whilst player is OFF. So the battery is discharged by 0,576 Ah in 24 hours, therefor a good 1600mAh battery will be empty after 3 days, an old battery will surely be discharged way before that.

I suspect the LX2201 (www.rockbox.org/twiki/bin/view/Main/IriverH3XXHardwareComponents#Microsemi_LX2201_USB_AC_battery) chip being defective. I supplied 4 Volts to the battery plug on the pcb and on the Vdd-pins of the LX2201 i get 3,71 V, which should not be according to the LX2201 datasheet:
"The integrated PMOS pass element features low drop out voltage while providing an inherent load disconnect with virtually no
drain on the battery when disabled or when the input power is removed"
It seems that the MOSFET-inherent Diode of the PMOS is destroyed, because i can measure 0,23 V reverse voltage drop from the LX2201 BAT-pins to the Vdd-pins using the diode-tester of my ABB-Multimeter. Normally there should be no measurable reverse current path.

I have made these measurements with RTC enabled and disabled and found no difference.

So now i?m figuring out where to place a small switch to really disconnect the battery. Maybe someone has further facts on this.

Greetings
Norb